From Director Jim Miller – Unacceptable Gear Practices

In years past, two practices were very common in Natural Areas and on Dok’s Tower. These two things need to stop as they are dramatically reducing the life span of our gear.

We have adjusted the training to highlight these practices and alternatives but the “more seasoned” instructor community needs to pay attention.

  1. Practice: Attaching a figure 8 to a belay line and hauling it back up the for the next rappel.
    • Effect: The banging on the rock is reducing the life of our aluminum and steel rescue 8’s to about 1 event each.
    • Alternative actions:
      • – climb or carry it back up
      • – pad it for the ride back up in a think stuff sack or old T shirt or towel.
      • – Clip it to the activity line and use that to hold it away from the surface for the return trip
  2. Practice: Dropping rope bags and gear off of the tower at the end of the day.
    • Effect: The Shear Reduction Blocks are getting badly dinged and gouged by the steel carabiners when the bag hits the ground and the wad of rope jams the carabiners into the SRBs.
    • Alternative action:
      • – carry the bag down
      • – have someone else carry the bag down.

End of Advisory

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